Any further discussion of the 54'lb torque appreciated.So write the is cause I am at my wits end with this mower. I'd rather have them somewhat over-tight than loose. I may like some have mentioned consider lowering to 50-60 'lbs in future if I find the nutz too tight again. I do agree about wet torque and its adverse effect of possibly skewing the actual torque amount- but we'll see what the outcome is when I next attempt to remove the blades. It is a German manufacturer of high-end parts for the automotive trade, and their products are excellent, though pricey.

I have found that the copper anti-seize works best- I usually use Wurth brand, from when I had my foreign auto shop. So I wire wheeled the spindle bolts threads and applied a light coat of COPPER anti-seize, and torqued to 75 ft lbs. Evidently they aren't! The shop owner, a Scag dealer, told me he often has to use a Dremil tool to cut off the top nut to change/sharpen blades. Called my dealer to make sure, before using the cheater pipe, that the blades weren't reverse, (left hand) thread. Thought the breaker bar might break, but it didn't - fortunately. Prior Pro owner had grey anti-seize on the spindle bolts but they would not budge without a 1.5' breaker bar and a pipe 'cheater'. Not crazy about that combination so I put my adjustable jack stands under the machine before I crawl under it. My hydraulic floor jack just makes it high enough as long as I add a piese of 2 by on the lift plate. I have to raise up this machine considerably in order to get the blade bolts to clear the bottom of the spindles and fall out. I put a thin aircraft type washer under this nut in hopse that it will prevent what happened, time will tell!!! I have the nuts here in my parts stash but not the bolt, Scag dealer stocks them and told me that they are a common replacement part. I damaged the bolt in the process of drilling the nut to split it so I had to replace both. The blade on this spindle was in worse condition than the other two and I think that from striking rocks, roots, or other not easily moved objects, the bolt tightened excessively. I had to drill small holes progressively on opposite sides of the nut and took a chisel and hammer to split the nut to remove it. even with a 400FTLB impact wrench and the air compressor at max pressure, I couldn't remove the nut on the R/H blade bolt. I started to change the blades on my Scag Tiger Cub 48' deck today and ran into a problem.

John deere z335e blade removal